We returned from Cape Crozier on 10 January where we sampled an active Adelie penguin colony to obtain data on their present diet. This area was spectacular—a huge colony of penguins, numbering approximately 120,000 breeding pairs (see figure). With nonbreeders and chicks there as well, there was easily a quarter of a million birds around us! In fact, there are so many birds that in some spots they have ‘penguin highways’ where so many birds are moving to and from the colony that distinct paths have been worn in the snow (see figure). In addition, there was an Emperor penguin colony on the ice not far from where we were. Although most of these birds have already raised their young and left, we did see two large chicks on the ice that had not yet fledged. We also saw the Ross Ice Shelf, a permanent and flat ice sheet that covers much of the coastal waters near here and is an extension of glacial ice from the continent. In the past few years, some large chunks of this shelf have broken free and are now drifting in the Ross Sea. These bergs are huge (one is nearly 11,000 km2 and as long as the state of Maryland!) and will take many decades to melt.
We sampled the active colony just as we do the abandoned sites. This time, however, the penguins came by to see what we were doing. They are very curious birds and whenever we started working in the colony, a number of them would walk over to us to check us out. Even while photographing the test pits after excavation, the penguins would jump in and steal the scene (see figure).
After completing our work here, we were to move to Cape Bird by helicopter for additional work. However, weather prevented us from doing so. A storm came through the area and kept us at Crozier for two additional days. However, the time was well spent. We hiked five miles across the island to an historic site on one day--a stone shelter built by some British explorers in 1911 when they were studying the Emperor penguin colony (see figure). They undertook an epic journey of over 70 miles from their hut to reach this spot in the dead of winter with temperatures as cold as –50 degrees F and strong winds. They left some things behind in their shelter including a crate of miscellaneous items, some Emperor penguin skins, and some string and wire. Everything they left is perfectly preserved and we took photos but touched nothing except to take a small sample of penguin skin for radiocarbon analysis.
The weather got colder for us too. One night while camping, the temperature reached –15 degrees C. However, our tents and sleeping gear are quite good and none of us got cold. In fact, we slept quite well. Overall, the weather we’ve experienced has ranged from beautiful sunny days with temperatures around zero or slightly above, to cold, windy and snowy days with temperatures at –10 degrees C. We work when we can and deal with the conditions otherwise.
After returning to McMurdo, we began washing and processing our samples. The stinky fresh guano samples had to be washed outside, so Mike bundled up and took up the task (see figure). He really is enjoying himself!
On Saturday we head to our most remote campsite—Cape Hickey north along the Scott Coast. We will be up there for about six days, but will take food for ten in case the weather gets us stuck again. I’ll write another update and answer questions from your class after we return.